HISTORY

Before we get started on my build updates I’ll give you a brief history on where my inspiration came from for this build. If you haven’t caught any of the previous articles please check them out at this link.

In Post World War II Germany there was a small uprising of what some would call “Privateers” or “Homebuilt Racers”. These men collected aircraft debris, KDF  VW Kubelwagen parts among other mechanicals to build their own race cars out of.

Shown below is the Kurt Kohnke “Special”. Kohnke utilized part of an aircraft cockpit to create this car. As you can see. The construction is somewhat crude. Hammer marks are present, body symmetry is the goal but not always achieved.

The alloy body is typically wrapped around tubular aluminum or steel supports. In some cases their was a main chassis with a structural support cage built off of it for the body, as I am doing with the Frankfurt Flyer.

Germany wasn’t the only place where hot-rodding VW engines and building streamline bodies for them was happening. This little racer from Australia was quite the machine.

A closer look at these pictures reveals something that I think is really fascinating. The overall design of the bodies is absolutely beautiful. But unlike Porsche, many of the homebuilt racers worried much less about the perfection in the body and more about perhaps the experimental side of racing. Of course one wants to perform the absolute best work possible. But the above picture gives you an idea of how worried these guys were about “Panel Gaps and fitment”.

I also came across this picture of the Glockler car. It features a hinged cockpit enclosure. I’m definitely making one for my car.

FRANKFURT FLYER

As I’m going through my notes and photo’s from the last update till now, I realize I’ve moved quite far on the build process! I’ll start by walking through some of the pictures of the nose.

After completing both fenders I turned my attention to the nose section. The first thing I did as usual, was make a cardboard template.

I use the template to cut out my general shape of metal. I start wheeling the metal with a light squeeze and slowly tighten down the wheels in between checking my fitment as I go. Here are a series of photo’s showing the progression.

Definitely needs more crown in the middle and some tightening around the outside. Notice the wheeling marks getting more vivid.

Getting closer but still not laying down just right. A few more minutes on the wheel and we should be there.

You’ll notice in the above picture the nose section is laying in pretty well. One thing I’ll point out is there is only one screw holding the piece in place at the center bottom part. This tells you that the section is holding it’s shape pretty well without being clamped down everywhere…

Here’s a side view of the nose profile. I really love the way it’s turning out!

Jump ahead and I’ve got the bottom section shaped  and ready to weld. Now for welding you want to clamp these sections together as tightly as possible, hence the Clekos (temporary rivets) holding the section in place.

The wheel arches still need to be rolled and the center section welded in place but we’re definitely moving and I like what I’m seeing.

Learning from my previous mistakes I decided to hold off on welding the nose panel in place until I made certain the bonnet was going to fit right. I started by drawing out a few shapes I liked on paper and then went with this one. I then transferred the shape to metal and started with the surround first. I left extra material on the inner edge for rolling and fitting of the hood.

The forward section of the hood is looking good so it’s ready to weld. But before that I make two more pieces running each side of the hood and coming around in front of the drivers cockpit. After drawing out a few shapes for a hood I decide on one I like and as so many times before in this project, there’s not turning back!

The nose and two side panels now go to the bead roller to make the recess lip where the hood lies. I also wheel out the hood very lightly to give it some nice bubbly character. Viola- Everythings coming together.

Looking back on shaping and building the nose section really teaches me a lot. So much that I plan to build another body for the car this summer. I plan to implement everything good that I’ve learned so far as I move toward the rear section and definitely avoid the costly and timely mistakes I made on the nose.

Moving onto the rear section of the car, which will open in “Clamshell” fashion is really bringing the whole picture together. Since all of this is being done in my head with a few notebooks of ideas and concepts being written along the way, there’s a never-ending battle of trial and error with the occasional success.

This picture gives you a sneak peak at whats to come with the rear section. Implementing my ideas and bettering my techniques as I go proves to be a good thing. The back is looking so much better then the front I’m almost tempted to chop the front off and start over… At this point that might be slightly irrational though.

The Maserati Ghibli was produced from 1966 to 1973. The Ghibli Coupes, eye-catching in their own right, are quite rare with only 1149 being produced. However the convertible is extremely rare. Fewer than 150 “spyders” or convertible are said to have been produced.

The standard Ghibli was offered with a 4719CC engine boasting 330HP while the Ghibli SS offered  4930CC at 350HP. Certainly enough power to move the shapely car down the road. The Four Cam 330HP engine was able to move the car 0-60MPH  in 6.8 seconds with a top speed of 154MPH.

The interior is nicely appointed with leather seating, dash and gauge layout is very considerate and ergonomic to the driver. The engine power is transmitted either through a 5 speed manual gear box shown here or an automatic transmission.

With the Florida sun setting and the palms reaching toward the blue sky, this Ghibli was really showing itself well. Whether it’s the coupe or a Spyder. The Ghibli is certainly a beautiful car with Giugiaro’s signature design written all over it.

I hope you enjoy the photo’s and as always,

Happy Motoring~

For example this Ferrari 250 GTO restored by MPI

MPI has given The Motoring Journal a sneak peak of the activities happening at the Cavallino Classic, “A Convention of Automotive Enthusiasts”.

Here in the paddock drivers are preparing to race with a 1954 Ferrari 250 Boano

If you are attending The Cavallino you can find the MPI crew at the following functions:

Saturday, January 21

• Concorso d’Eleganza at The Breakers- 4 Cars on Display by MPI
• Borrani Americas display at The Sponsors Automotive Products area

Racing every year MPI offers transportation and pit crew service to their clients during the Florida Trophy at the Palm Beach International Raceway. In 2012 six cars will compete.

• 1959 Ferrari TDF- Red w/yellow (Chuck Wegner)
• 1962 Ferrari Lusso- Selver and yellow (Peter Giddings)
• 1984 Ferrari BBLM- Red (Jim Fuchs)
• Ferrari 308M- Yellow (Stephen Dudley)
• 1954 Ferrari 250 Boano- Blue w/silver top (Jack Thomas)
• 1952 Ferrari 212 Spyder- Red (Mark Lindman)

In the above picture you can see the butt seem straight down the top side of the fender. The piece blending down into the hood area is laying on the buck without being clamped. Remember the buck is used for fitment of the panels and as a guide to shaping the structural support when the body is completed. If I can wheel a piece that simply lies down right where it’s supposed to on the Buck, I’m in good shape.

When you start shaping metal something magical happens. You realize everything around you has a shape from tables to poles holding up the barn to a simple piece of pipe like the one shown below. I used this as an example to show you a very utilitarian way of getting a shape. The rounded edge of this pipe gives my panel a nice contour. I marked out a series of lines on the panel and worked my way down the metal with slight bends until I achieve the overall contour I’m looking for. To hold the bar in place I put a foot on each side of the sheet and then bend the metal, applying even pressure across the piece for an even bend.

Do a little at a time and test fit. You can see here it’s getting close. I bead rolled my edge so the panels line up nice and pretty. I was so tempted to rivet these two panels but could hardly wait to start welding.

So, after I tackled a few practice pieces to test the welder out, I decided I might as well try a panel.

My first weld actually didn’t turn out to bad. If you’re new to this like I am, here are some pointers. First off read the manual, use all safety equipment suggested by manufacturer and I’m not liable for you!

• My Welder: Lincoln 180C MIG welder with a spoolgun
• Clean your metal with a stainless brush, it can oxidize in just a matter of minutes so clean it immediately before welding, even tacking a weld
• Hold the tip of the Spoolgun about 7/8″ to 1″ away from the metal
• Point the tip at a slight angle in the direction you will be pushing your weld along, remember you Push the gas along with this setup rather than pulling like on Steel
• I’ve had several different opinions given on what a proper weld looks like and here’s the one I trust. Your weld should not melt through the backside of the panel. It should show a very small “dent” only noticeable on close inspection. On the top side of your weld you should not be able to hook a finger nail on it. If you can hook your finger nail, it’s not deep enough.
• You will have to practice your movement speed along the metal to get the perfect weld.

Extreme Curves

Now onto the more extreme compound curves. One thing I learned is to NOT weld the more curvacious pieces until the very end. Use clamps or clecos (temporary/removable  rivets) to hold your pieces together until you’re absolutely certain they are ready to weld.

Here is a picture of Clecos in action

My front fender area was coming together nicely, if only I wouldn’t have welded it together!

My seems were lining up really well and the shape was very close to that of the buck. However my weld got pretty hot and started to warp the fender. Another thing to note: the bottom of the fender is run off which will be cut off and then a new piece will be shaped to tie in the lower front nose piece into the fender…

I have to say after working on a section for a couple days and then not being completely satisfied with it makes it hard to move on. I decided to let that side rest for a day and try the other fender.

By taking my time and paying much closer attention to my fitment this fender fits the buck almost perfectly. The secret: Wheel for a minute or two at the most and then check fitment. You can trust the picture you have in your mind of what the shape should be but you have to lay it on the buck constantly. This also helps you read the shape, dissect exactly what needs to happen and then apply the wheel, shrinker or stretcher or whatever tool to make that shape happen.

Now there’s no choice but to go back and redo the other side! A person shouldn’t be too proud of their work but this piece gets me excited… No, I’m not welding it yet.

Inspiration

I was told about a local gentleman who hand-built an aluminum bodied experimental aircraft. I was able to set up a meeting with him at his hangar to learn more. I learned that our local airport houses an Experimental Aircraft Hangar where people can practice fabricating with several tools including the English Wheel. This comes as welcomed news as it’s always fun to be around people who share your addiction.

Here’s Doug’s Hand-built Plane

All panels are Aluminum with the exception of the engine fairing which is fiberglass. All the structural reinforcements are formed by hand, just like the homebuilt racers I’m basing my build on. All panels are riveted to the inner reinforcements. The plane is powered by an 1885CC VW engine. Estimated cruising speed 130MPH.

Here you can see the rivets used

Here you can see the hand-formed structural supports. This is a similar construction as to how the body sections will be supported on my racer.

The cockpit also sported some neat features. The sliding cover was very cool. I might try to fabricate a removable cover similar to this for my car.

As far as inspiration goes, here’s another picture I’d like you to see. This Streamliner was built from aircraft scrap left over from WWII in Germany in 1947. Interesting Cockpit design and hammer marks were the least of his concerns.

Another neat car is this “Whitehead Special” from Australia. According to the book “Making the Volkswagen Go” this car had special design heads and valve covers which allowed the exhaust ports to vent the exhaust straight out of the valve covers.

Stay tuned for more updates in the next week!

Happy Motoring~

In this article I’m going to walk you through an affordable way to build a nice shipping crate on a standard 48×40″ pallet.

Please note that your safety is your responsibility. Use the proper ear and eye protection.  TMJ is not liable for your safety!

Tools and Material

You will need the following tools and material.

• Battery Drill with the appropriate bit for your screws (I use T-25 Torx)
• A box of  1.75″ wood screws (sheetrock or decking) Apx 60-70 screws needed
• 1 Countersink bit/drill
• 2- 4×8′ sheets of 3/8″ plywood  (you can use 1/2 for more stability
• 7- 8 foot 2×2″ framing support studs
• Standard size pallet (48×40″)
• A level
• Measuring tape
• Square
• Pencil
• Skill Saw
• Miter Box
• 3 Ratchet Straps for strapping the engine down

Cutting

I started with my 2×2 framing. With the aircleaners off of the engine I had a total clearance height of 32″ to give myself a bit of space to clear the fan shroud.

• Cut 8-2×2′s at 30 and 1/4″ long
• Cut 4-2×2′s at 6″ length
• Cut 3- 2×2′s at 37″ length
• Cut 2- 2×2′s at 48″ length
• Cut 2- 2×2′s at 16″ length

Now onto cutting your plywood. If you’ve done this right, you will only need one sheet to cover 3 sides of the crate. The other sheet will be used to cover each end (2 sides).

• Mark and cut the sheet in 32″ increments. This will give you three identical pieces (32×48″) to use for the wider, 48 inch sides and top of the crate.
• Mark and cut the sheet at 32″ by 40″ for your sides. You will need two of these.

Building

Note-If you do not countersink your screws prior, the wood will most likely crack!

1. Take the 2-16″ 2×2 pieces and lay them out so they are at each side of the oil screen cover. They rest on the bottom side of the engine case. Screw each piece of wood to the palet.Note that you can add some rubber gasket material if you feel necessary as this wood will be in direct contact with the engine case. I’ve never had any issue with wear/tear with the case resting on the wood in this fashion…
   
2. Now is the time when you want to strap the engine down with your ratchet straps. With this engine, since it will be restored I ran a soft rubber backed carpet over the cylinder head tin and a strap over each side. I then ran a third strap over the transmission mount flange on the back as shown in this picture below.
    

   

3. Countersink  6″ 2×2 pieces so that they can be screwed to the pallet at each corner along the 48″ sides as shown in this picture. These are used to screw the upright supports to as well as screwing the side sheet panels on later.
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4. In the above picture you can see the 6″ pieces now mounted at each corner. Off of those pieces I screwed the base of each of the 8 upright 30 and 1/4″ supports.
5. Your upright supports are standing now and though they may seem a bit wobbly, they’ll firm up soon enough. Take your 48″ cut 2×2, measure 6″ in and countersink accordingly to drill down into the upright supports.  Screw them together.
6. Now you can grab the 37″ supports which run between the 48″ pieces. As shown in the photo above I countersunk and screwed them in from the 48″ pieces.
7. Countersink and screw down into the 37″ side pieces into the uprights accordingly and make sure now that all framing is tied together. Add addition supports/screws where you feel necessary.
8. Now onto the side panels. Since you have them all cut this will be pretty straight-forward. I started with the 48″ panels first. Make sure everything is square and begin screwing them together. Start with a screw in each corner (4 total) and move onto the other side. Save the top piece for last.
   
9. The following photo shows your side pieces screwed in place and then the final top piece.
   
10. At this point you can choose to take an additional step in supporting the engine. It is possible to build a crossmember out of 3/4 plywood that mounts onto the transmission/engine mounting bolt holes. This piece runs the width of the crate and would mount to the side panels. This step is not shown in the pictures.
11. Finish screwing off all of the panels and check to make sure everything is sound and secure.
     

    

The book contains detailed information on each marque. It not only serves as an entertaining book from a readers perspective but also provides valuable data and specs for the collector. From production numbers to engine and coachwork information, Gullet has done his research.

For many car enthusiasts, myself included I have a deep conviction of being able to identify any car that has ever been produced. Lets just say European Style with American Muscle opened my eyes to a few automakers I’d never heard of.

For example the Gordon-Keeble shown below.

Every marque featured is assisted by photographs which draws the readers attention to styling details and cues that will help for future identification. The 117 page, soft cover book is small enough to take along on travels yet eye-catching for coffee tables or to have around the house as a conversation piece. It features over 100 Photos of the 25 marques.

I was so intrigued with the book I actually read it in one sitting. I’ve gone back to check stat’s and data on several of the marques since then. Overall, it’s a great addition to any car enthusiasts library and I would highly recommend it.

You can purchase European Style with American Muscle here online.

Gullet has more publications in the works which will take a closer look at individual marques similar to those shown in this book. His future works are sure to expand upon the foundation set in this book and may possibly be offered as a set accompanying European Style with American Muscle.

I look forward to seeing more of Gullets brilliant publications.

About The Author

Mike Gullet writes about classic cars, racecars and other cars that interest him. He also pays close attention to the makers and history of each car. He began publishing his own blog My Car Quest in November 2010.

He has spent most of his adult life in the technology business and has lived and worked in the San Fransisco Bay Area where he currently lives with his wife and cats.

You might find it interesting that it was in 1924 that the first “Race Car Hauler” was used. Christian Werner and Alfred Neubauer had the idea to haul their car to the track. It was a time when Mercedes-Benz and Auto Union ruled the racing world. And Mercedes-Benz, with their success, could afford to load up the beautiful Porsche Designed-Monza race car on this custom built race car hauler and go racing.

Daimler AG

The question I have by looking at this design is, How did it work? Did the car unload on a dock? Did the back end pivot back to roll the car off? It’s hard to judge by these pictures. By the picture below I think there may have been extensions added to the ramps bringing them down to ground. Maybe you know?

Daimler AG

Either way, pictures like these fascinate me. Man’s innovation is never-ending, However if it were me behind the wheel of the Mercedes-Benz Monza race car I might just rather drive it to the track!

Daimler AG

My purchase of this Bahama Yellow 1968, 912 as always, was an adventure. I found the car located in Orlando, FL. The seller had owned it for nearly two decades. His roots in Porsche ownership went deep as his father also owned several 356′s and 912′s.  The car was pretty much original although had some paintwork and a fender replaced from a well documented  “bump” that occurred in March 1990.

The one red flag that I had was regarding the rust. Anytime I see visible rust-through on a Porsche I walk away. But why not this time you ask? I asked myself the same question. It was charming. It came with boxes of 912 and 356 parts. When the seller drove it, the little 912 ran great. For some reason, this wasn’t so when I got behind the wheel… But more on that later.

Rust in a Porsche is never a good thing. The majority of experienced Porsche owners will tell you to stay away. Replacement panels are expensive, finding an experienced person to fit those panels is even more expensive and very difficult. It’s not like welding a floor pan into a 57 Chevy. There’s no frame on the Porsche so the floor pans, center tunnel, rockers all make up the structural foundation of the car. An improperly installed floor pan can and will have an adverse effect on the makeup of the car. In extreme cases a car that is badly rusted and still being driven can buckle under the stresses of driving.

Maybe it was my Minnesota “Salt Belt” roots that curbed my fear of rust. I may never know, but I struck a deal and bought the 912. I had a friend follow me as I drove the car from Orlando to Jacksonville. The engine bucked and popped as I had a heart to heart with her, “Come on now, stay alive, don’t die on me now… I’ll take good care of ya”. Yeah, that wasn’t helping. My phone finally rings and my buddy asks how much a 912 should smoke. “It shouldn’t” I tell him. Well, maybe just a little on cold start but that’s it and we’ve been driving 2 hours now. Fighting the crazy traffic and Florida heat we finally arrive in Jacksonville with no major problems, that we know of…

My mechanical knowledge of 912′s was fairly limited at this point but I knew a compression test was in store. The engine seemed to get weaker as I drove the car just a few miles the next day and I made the decision to bring it to (insert horror movie music here) A MECHANIC! If you live in Jacksonville, FL and want to find a reliable Aircooled Porsche mechanic where do you go? I’ve yet to have that question answered. But I ended up taking it an Aircooled VW specialist… FIRST MISTAKE. At least I knew he could do a compression test and that he did. Just 2 days into my ownership I get the call that the engine needs at least a top end job. My heart sank.

First lesson: Do a compression test before buying a vintage or just about any car.

I ask the mechanic how much to rebuild the top end (which is an open-ended question). He said it would run $2500-$4500! This is my first Porsche engine building experience so as with many naive Porsche owners I am now disgusted. I am in denial and my wife is going to kill me.

Since I need a top end this brings up the question, Who do I want to do this work? A second opinion is always good so a friend gives me the number of a retired Porsche mechanic. When I told him who had my car he said “get it out of there as fast as possible”. So taking his advice, I get the car and bring it to another shop. At least this “other” shop had several Porsche’s sitting around. No 356′s or 912′s but hey, he’d been doing this a long time…

I left the car at shop #2 and anxiously awaited their call. My phone finally rings and it’s the same diagnosis, at least 2 of the cylinders have low compression. He suggested new pistons, rings, cylinders and checking/repairing the heads.  The quote was for around $3,000. I am now trying to convince myself of the good deed I’m doing by keeping this 912 on the road. Remember the rust? Yeah, I remember it too. And it’s the first thing I’m going to see when I go to pick up my 912 with a “Fresh top end”!

So the motor is done. I pick up the car and make my way across Jacksonville, listening to the sound of a pinging getting louder, and louder, and LOUDER and I’m finally in my driveway. Now I’m out a total of over $8,500.00 with the purchase of the car and the engine work and I’ve got a horrible sound coming from the engine. I call the shop that did the work and the owner says get the car in your garage and pull off the valve covers and see if anything looks suspicious.

The right side valve covers off, there’s a nut and washer laying inside. Keeping the profanity at a minimum I try to smile and call it a simple mistake but I would like nothing better than to walk into that mechanics shop and give him a piece of my mind. I clearly see where the nut goes on the rocker assembly. I find out the torque specs via the 912bbs.org website, properly torque the nut and viola, my valve train clatter has miraculously disappeared! But the rust hasn’t!

So how bad is the rust? Well, the car felt solid… Really solid. With an awl, you can poke around the floor pans and see that it won’t go through. For some reason though, the outer rockers have it the worst and these are visible to everyone who gets close to the car. It’s a driver, who cares? Well, Once you were in the car driving you certainly didn’t care because it was now running and driving wonderfully. It was the perfect beach cruiser and with the Amco roof rack I found, it was my surf rig.

There are a handful of guys I personally know in the US who have no problem buying a rusted out Porsche. They are experienced and have access to the people and tools to repair and do the job right. One thing is true, because of the general consensus to walk away from a rusty Porsche. You can definitely find good deals on a car with rust. But for a guy like me who at the time was unable to weld floor pans and rockers, how much rust is too much?

Common Rust Issues and Areas

Floor Pan:

The most important factor is that the major structural points do not have rust through. Jack points, Floor pans, Front Pan, Rear Torsion area and areas where suspension components are mounted. In addition the headlight bezels, Rear seat area (from leaking window seals) and the seal around the windshield as well can leak and cause rust.

You can see here the front pan had slight surface rust.

The door Jambs are an important area down in the corners. If rust has made its mark here there is usually much more beneath.

The front spare tire well is a common spot for rust

By inspecting the rear torsion plate area closely you might get an idea of what lurks inside. This is a vital and expensive area for rust.

The final say… Overall I was of course unhappy about the surprises that had come up with my 912. However, this car served me well and made a great daily driver. Some frowned upon the rust and others loved how original and honest the car was. The car brought me great pleasure and is now restored and serving a happy new owner.