Posted on 28 January 2009 by Chris
First off, I take no liability for what happens to you or your wheels. This is just what I did.
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I recently picked up a “Flat Six” Fuchs wheel off of a scrap car. I decided to use this as a test wheel for different refinishing theories I’ve come across for refinishing at home.
The wheel had some curbing, nicks and scratches. I decided to start by sanding these out. This was a mistake! I should’ve stripped the wheel first and then worked out the flaws. I spent 16+ hours sanding and then had a friend tell me “Oven cleaner works to get that anodizing off”! So there was still some of the original anodizing remaining on the wheels and I tried Oven Cleaner. I would suggest using oven cleaner first. I let it sit on the wheel for about 45 minutes. Don’t freak out when you see the wheel (like I did) because it’ll look like the thing is ruined from the oven cleaner. All of the staining will polish out of the aluminum with a little work. I used a 220 Grit sandpaper for the dings/scratches and then worked up to 1500 grit for polishing, then rubbing compound, then Never Dull for the finale’.
So now they were ready to paint. Originally Fuchs would dip the wheels and I wanted to try to create the same effect without wasting $50.00 worth of paint to dip them in. What I did was mask the wheel off from the back, all openings with Packing Tape. From now on I would mask off the entire inner back of the wheel (where they would put wheel weights) because later on you’ll see the paint drip through.
Once I was certain the holes were all sealed. I flipped the wheel over and set it ontop of a plastic wash basin that fit the diameter perfectly.
The basin is used to catch the paint once you’re ready to poke through the packing tape. Next I used a Semi Gloss can of black enamel with a it of thinner in it and poured it carefully in between each mag of the wheel allowing it to rise slowly and evenly.
I let the paint sit for a few minutes and then using an “exacto” knife (razor) I poked slices through the tape and let the paint drain through. This is where the back of the wheel got the drip marks that could’ve been avoided if I masked it all off… No big deal, I just have to wipe the inner backside down now with some acetone or similar paint remover.
The almost final outcome is looking good. Some minor detailing will be needed where the can dripped onto the polished lip…
A couple more pics now that it’s cured. You can see I need to do final polishing on the Aluminum and get rid of a couple spots where the black paint got out of place but no big deal.
Some Fuchs Facts:
Fuchs started making wheels in 65 (I was told). Fuchs is the German word for Fox. You can see a fox stamped on early wheels. The earliest wheels were not stamped with a conventional stamp. They were stamped with ink and some were not stamped at all. They started out as 4.5×15″ size, then 5.5×15 and then 6×15 some being “Deep Six” (With a deeper lip) and then later flat six. In the mix were the 7R or R7 (I’ve heard it called both ways) wheels. These were made for racing cars and had no identification other than having the look of a “Deep Six” with a 7″ wide wheel. Here are the early part #’s that are known.
All 15″ sizes.
4.5″ 901.361.012.01 42mm positive offset
5.5″ 901.361.012.04 42mm positive offset
6.0″ 901.361.012.06 36mm positive offset
7.0″ 901.361.012.05 49mm positive offset
To tell your year date you should look on the back in between the lug holes. Here you can see a wheel dated 1169 (November of 69).
The “Early” wheels were dipped in paint rather than being sprayed. I’m not sure exactly what early means but I have a set from 69 that were dipped from the factory. So, I’m guessing they stopped dipping in the early 70’s also when they went to the 911.—.—.– part #’s.
Update! In my search for Deep Six Fuchs I came across a full set of the rare R7 (or 7R) 7×15 wheels. These wheels were made for the 67 Porsche 911R. There were 24 911R’s built so you can imagine how rare these wheels would be. These wheels were stamped with a rubber stamp and ink in regard to Part #’s. The date codes were done into the metal. Here are some pics!