Early Porsche 911/912 Sway Bar Install
Posted on 18 March 2009 by Chris
I pulled a 13mm Sway Bar off of a 66 912. It was missing a drop link and all bushings needed to be replaced. I ordered all of the drop link bushings, two drop links and misc hardware from Easy Porsche which was very affordable and the guys there were very helpful with part #’s, etc…
The upper bushings I had to get from Auto Atlanta for a total of $53.00.
I wire brushed and treated all of the components as seen here. I then painted them. Next up is installation.

First remove your front wheels and support the front end of the car. Do this at your own risk. I take no liability for how you raise/lower or support your car.

Next up locate the cover over the Sway Bar hole. It has 3 bolts in it. I believe all pre-74, 911 and 912 cars will associate with these pictures. If your car had a sway bar then this cover will have a hole in it, or could be missing altogether. These are 13mm bolts and if not too rusty, are easily removed.
Remove the cap and then carefully pry it off. Mine was still sealed to the original undercoating which I wanted to preserve. You can use a flat screwdriver or blade to get behind it and may need to tap with a hammer to pry it off once the bolts are removed.

To my surprise the surface was like new behind the cover. And look at the inside of the original cover itself!

I was a little concerned when I saw that behind the cover was solid. I thought I would have to drill the 1″ or so hole to get the sway bar through. But it was just the original undercoating they used still sealed the hole up. I pressed a screw driver through the center of it and went right through. I then bored it out to the square shape of the end of the sway bar.

I used a knife to shape the hole and get the sway bar through. Here I am pushing it through. NOTE:Now here’s a trick I found out. If you send the sway bar through from the drivers side, it’ll be MUCH easier to guide it out the other hole on the passenger side. Open the hood, remove your carpet from the front trunk you’ll see enough room on the passenger side of the gas tank to get your arm in there and grab the sway bar and direct it out the hole…You need to do the same plate/cover removal on the other side, poke the hole, shape it out, etc.

Now put your bushings on and then the Sway Bar Plates. I got the Sway Bar centered in them and then alternately tightened each side down, making sure both sides were even.

Once you’ve done that you can install your upper sway bar brackets that attach to the drop links. I went to the hardware store to get hardware for this. Ace had almost identical hardware to the originals I pulled off. I also used lock washers and blue lock tight on them.

For the next step it would be wise to get the front end jacked up evenly or even up on ramps would be fine. You want to have both sides about even so you can connect the drop links on each side in an easy fashion.
I used a large clamp to press the new bushings into the drop links. I also use white lithium grease to help them slip in.

Now press in the metal tube inserts. I use my big orange clamp/press and press it that way. To push it the extra couple mm’s I use a socket the same size as the little spacer on one side and a larger one for it to push into on the other side. Get the idea? Make certain to get these evenly placed otherwise it’s a bear to get them into the mounting brackets when you go to install! After you get these all pressed in evenly you’re ready to install the drop links.
This is pretty straight forward. It may be easier to start with either the top or bottom but remember to size them up because they only go in one way out of 4 possible! Pictured is the bottom mounted in place. Don’t tighten them completely until you’ve got both top and bottom in place! Use LocTite!

If you took my advice and got both sides evenly jacked or on ramps the other side will be pretty simple. If not, you’ll wrestle getting the control arm up into place to mount the lower bracket on the drop link! Once you do get it, tighten everything up properly let the car down, make sure your lugnuts are tight and go for a drive.
Still looks the same!




March 31st, 2010 at 8:24 pm
Thank You very much for Your instructions about sway bar install. I have a 1969 911E coupe myself. Yesterday I bought a sway bar kit for front mounting and a friend of mine sended me a link to your instruction. Very useful for me!
Best from Hans, Copenhagen Denmark
April 1st, 2010 at 12:25 am
You’re welcome Hans. Thanks for visiting and dig around in the Archives for more tips that will be applicable to your 911E!
Happy Motoring-
Chris R
July 15th, 2010 at 3:28 pm
Merci pour le contenu intéressant!
December 29th, 2010 at 1:06 am
Hi Crunge
Thank you, from Sheffield Tasmania. your article inspired me to upgrade (get a set) of 911 drop links. I got adjustable aftermarket drop links and a hollow 21mm stabilizer bar. i got some really nice adjustable drop links on ebay for $110 with postage, straight out of a race car.
oversived rubbers and new bolts $50
The hollow bar was the most expensive piece at $150 with postage but its lighter and 58% stiffer. so its still drivable on public roads, but sticks like “you know what” to a blanket.. the only down side is i feel every single bump in the road now. but personally i like the feel over comfort, wind in your hair sort of thing..
thank you again
Phillip